Just wondered what is the highest RMS output off all the boomboxes, but must take batteries ie Sony FH, I know some have option battery box but then the power is reduced I believe
Can we get a list starting from the highest and going down
quote:
Originally posted by bods:
Just wondered what is the highest RMS output off all the boomboxes, but must take batteries ie Sony FH, I know some have option battery box but then the power is reduced I believe
Can we get a list starting from the highest and going down
here's one;
How about 15 watts RMS, max! - using [ 8 'D' Batteries ]
JVC RC 550 JW Service Manual Specifications
How about 15 watts RMS, max! - using [ 8 'D' Batteries ]
JVC RC 550 JW Specifications
transwave5000 - 2009-12-01 18:29
It would probably be the Kaboom or the gf-777.
These use multi amplifier configurations.
.
.
.
.
GF-777 has 2 of the same audio amp as the GF-9000
GF 9000 is only 2x 6w RMS
GF-777 is 24W RMS = 4x 6w RMS
The all time highest R.M.S. output power delivers the Telefunken Studio1 or ...1M
It has real 2*30 Watt @ AC-operation
This puts out a few Believe me
!
quote:
Originally posted by djyetix:
The all time highest R.M.S. output power delivers the Telefunken Studio1 or ...1M
It has real 2*30 Watt @ AC-operation
Anybody can plug in their whatever to the mains and get unlimited power...
But; what is the output on
batteries as Requested & desired in the first question of this thread?
this has 10 battery operation as well as external power.
The JVC RC-550 is not 15w RMS. That is Max rating which is not the same as RMS. It looks like it's only 7watts and that's into a single channel only so it's actually quite tame for such a large box.
The Telefunken is pretty formidable but requires mains to do it. On batteries, it falls flat on it's face and many mid boxes could mop the floor with it.
The Panasonic RX-6400(A2) which is pictured above is high up there, as is the RX-A5.
The JVC RC-M70 is rated at 7.0 wpc X2 RMS.
The JVC RC-M90 does not have a published FTC RMS rating but based upon the circuit design and it's MAX rating relationship with the M70, I estimated that it's RMS rating would be approximately 9.5w rms x 2 or so.
The Kaboom is like 6wpc x 2 plus 20wpc x 2 for the subwoofers. Almost all the power is consumed by the subwoofers however 40/52 and they deliver the rich bass but the volume almost all comes from the 6wpc front speakers.
quote:
Originally posted by djyetix:
The all time highest R.M.S. output power delivers the Telefunken Studio1 or ...1M
It has real 2*30 Watt @ AC-operation
There is
one box that is more powerful than Studio 1/1M.
Telefunken Studio 1M pulling 126 watts from the mains 
Pioneer CK-11 pulling 156 watts from the mains 
Very interesting experiment Prime but you do know that power consumption and RMS output is not the same and the relationship not necessarily consistent depending upon the efficiency of the system, right?
WOW, what a result
Does this Pioneer have an integrated battery compartment?
I made a similar test with my Studio 1
Look here:
http://stereo2go.com/eve/forum...281083174#7281083174quote:
Originally posted by djyetix:
WOW, what a result
Does this Pioneer have an integrated battery compartment?
I made a similar test with my Studio 1
Look here:
http://stereo2go.com/eve/forum...281083174#7281083174
I remember that post well. It inspired me to get one myself.
The unit I tested with the wattmeter is AC only, however, the unit pictured
below has the same specs on AC and also runs on 10 D cells at a reduced output.
The output ratings in the service manual are
AC: 30.0W RMS per channel (5% THD)
DC: 12.5W RMS per channel (5% THD) (maybe with really fresh batteries)
quote:
Originally posted by Prime:
quote:
Originally posted by djyetix:
WOW, what a result
Does this Pioneer have an integrated battery compartment?
I made a similar test with my Studio 1
Look here:
http://stereo2go.com/eve/forum...281083174#7281083174
I remember that post well. It inspired me to get one myself.
The unit I tested with the wattmeter is AC only, however, the unit pictured
below has the same specs on AC and also runs on 10 D cells at a reduced output.
The output ratings in the service manual are
AC: 30.0W RMS per channel (5% THD)
DC: 12.5W RMS per channel (5% THD) (maybe with really fresh batteries)
That.....is......one......nice.....box......
:drool:
Aiwa Carryin' Compo 60 Watt RMS
Hello
I also got this Aiwa carry combo, just in a other color and with a "Wega 33" sticker on, but I cannot believe that this thing should have that much power - got no papers for this, but for a few others in my collection:
- Rotel RPM-10:
2 x 15 watts rms (2 x 25 music power) on AC
2 x 7 watts rms on DC
2 x 11 watts rms on car battery
- Kenwood El Poco
2 x 23 watts rms (2 x ?? music power) on AC
2 x 1,7 watts rms on DC
- Grundig Party Center 2000
2 x 15 watts rms (2 x 25 music power) on AC
2 x 2,5 watts rms on DC
- Telefunken Hifi Studio 1
2 x 30 watts rms (2 x 60 music power) on AC
no infos for DC
- Sony FH 3
2 x ?? watts rms (2 x 25 music power) on AC
no infos for DC
My other carry combos cannot play on batteries, a few got a 13,5 volt input for a car batterie ...
Best wishes
TOM
quote:
Originally posted by hifitom:
Hello
I also got this Aiwa carry combo, just in a other color and with a "Wega 33" sticker on, but I cannot believe that this thing should have that much power - got no papers for this, but for a few others in my collection:
I heard the Awia takes a rechargeable battery.
Is this true? Whats the capacity, voltage?
Do you have a picture available?
Thanks!!!
prime --the aiwa is 12v system -takes a 'stock'
gel cel made by panasonic and several other brands
that are sold at local hardware stores-
so - its an easy battery to replace
Wow.....that thing looks high quality, but why does it need to be so deep? There is only so much foam/fiberglass you can put behind the speakers
quote:
Originally posted by Stormin Normin:
The JVC RC-550 is not 15w RMS. That is Max rating which is not the same as RMS. It looks like it's only 7watts and that's into a single channel only so it's actually quite tame for such a large box.
The Telefunken is pretty formidable but requires mains to do it. On batteries, it falls flat on it's face and many mid boxes could mop the floor with it.
The Panasonic RX-6400(A2) which is pictured above is high up there, as is the RX-A5.
The JVC RC-M70 is rated at 7.0 wpc X2 RMS.
The JVC RC-M90 does not have a published FTC RMS rating but based upon the circuit design and it's MAX rating relationship with the M70, I estimated that it's RMS rating would be approximately 9.5w rms x 2 or so.
The Kaboom is like 6wpc x 2 plus 20wpc x 2 for the subwoofers. Almost all the power is consumed by the subwoofers however 40/52 and they deliver the rich bass but the volume almost all comes from the 6wpc front speakers.
well after reading this
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audio_powerI guess that the only way to really know which one boombox is the loudest is to do a comparision
between which boombox, but how to decide between which one's - To get a fair and meaningfull base to be able to draw upon.
Then the next discussion is;
Should boombox's be divided into Class's of boombox based upon,
Which characteristic; Or a collection of the below Characteristic's:
Physical cabinet Size?
How many speakers? 2 full range-1per side of side of box or speaker cabinet , 2woofer+2tweeter=1 pair per side of box or speaker cabinet
or more?
speaker size as some boombox's have large speakers but tiny amplifier's & look impressive, but fail to deliver [e.g. Sharp GF-9000]
Amplifier over-power with small speakers to compensate for small boombox's, to obtain BIG sound.
How many batteries does the unit requires internally to operate?
One-piece Boombox versus Sectional boombox, or Three-piece?
the above Would help to determine which has the [ Highest RMS Output Boombox ]
quote:
Originally posted by redbenjoe:
prime --the aiwa is 12v system
(2 x 6v) -takes 'stock'
gel cels made by panasonic and several other brands
that are sold at local hardware stores-
so - its an easy battery to replace
And I thought the JVC M90 was supposed to be one of the loudest
Just seen a picture on the net, with the cass door sticker, 2x 20w can't see what it says after thought but I don't think it say RMS
Thought the philips d8644 that gave out 35 watts per channel in 8 ohms
technics sa-c07 japenese version...20watts aside at ac operation...10 watts a side on dc operation with .3% thd
Yeah it's abit hard to do with all the different type and batteries vs no batteries etc
Just looking through some of my hi-fi brochures and the Sony book has FH-3, FH-7 MKII which is rated at 38W RMS
Also is the FH-9.... Anyone seen an FH-9 as It has no speakers and doesn't look like it came with any, yet same as FH-7
Someone also wrote prices in the books I have
There is a simple way to do this. It's kinda rough but will put you in the ball park. And I'm sure everyone here hasan oscilliscope to know when the amp is clipping right?
Regarding the power output...
Run a 1kHz test signal through the line input and get the steady voltage output of both channels over five seconds. Taking the impendance load of the speakers into consideration, I can come up with the rough RMS wattage output of the speakers.
(I have to do this the old fashioned way as my RMS multi-meter is toast.)
Use a 1kHz test tone with volume turned all the way up, you get 10v output (AC) at the speaker terminal.
Multiply this by the same, so 10v x 10v = 100v.
Now divide by resistive load, e.g. 8 ohms, so 100v / 8 ohms = 12.5w
Now, one must realize that attempting to get all 12.5w is unrealistic for usable power, so factor -27% (-3.375 in this case) for circuit loss and inefficiencies, plus account for the fact that the power supply is being drained by rails for other components as well. This also accounts for the fact that the amplifier will go into clipping faster as it's starving. (Most amp chips deal in varying voltage requirements for desired output depending on application. That gets into the heat factor which is it's own issue.)
So 12.5 - 3.375 = 9.125w
Keep in mind, during real listening there are always peaks and valleys. What you won't know is sustained load before clipping. You'll need serious test equipment for that plus be ready to dismantle your box.
quote:
Originally posted by oldskool69:
There is a simple way to do this. It's kinda rough but will put you in the ball park. And I'm sure everyone here hasan oscilliscope to know when the amp is clipping right?
Regarding the power output...
Run a 1kHz test signal through the line input and get the steady voltage output of both channels over five seconds. Taking the impendance load of the speakers into consideration, I can come up with the rough RMS wattage output of the speakers.
(I have to do this the old fashioned way as my RMS multi-meter is toast.)
Use a 1kHz test tone with volume turned all the way up, you get 10v output (AC) at the speaker terminal.
Multiply this by the same, so 10v x 10v = 100v.
Now divide by resistive load, e.g. 8 ohms, so 100v / 8 ohms = 12.5w
Now, one must realize that attempting to get all 12.5w is unrealistic for usable power, so factor -27% (-3.375 in this case) for circuit loss and inefficiencies, plus account for the fact that the power supply is being drained by rails for other components as well. This also accounts for the fact that the amplifier will go into clipping faster as it's starving. (Most amp chips deal in varying voltage requirements for desired output depending on application. That gets into the heat factor which is it's own issue.)
So 12.5 - 3.375 = 9.125w
Keep in mind, during real listening there are always peaks and valleys. What you won't know is sustained load before clipping. You'll need serious test equipment for that plus be ready to dismantle your box.
Do You have a simple way to make a test tone, that anybody could do or make to use with your formula here, to check this out?
quote:
Originally posted by cassettekid:
Do You have a simple way to make a test tone, that anybody could do or make to use with your formula here, to check this out?
Check the web. Free downloads for 1kHz test tones everywhere.
Almost forgot to mention...before plugging up your RCA connections, check the line level voltage when playing back the test tone. You should have no more than .45v using the AC side of a test meter. This way you are not running higher than the general peak standard for consumer audio.
Sorry if this has already been mentioned, but don't forget there is a limit to the power output of *any* boomer when running on d-cells. I don't know the technical figures, but the Kaboom is a good example. Crank in on batteries & it runs out of puff *way* quieter than when you plug it into the mains.
Also remember that amplification electronics & speaker efficiency has improved quite a bit over the years. Again the kaboom is a good example. With two 3" full range drivers & two 6" woofers, it makes a truly staggering racket with a total of 40 watts rms (@ 10% thd).
All that said, the M90 pushes out 2x15W rms which isn't too shabby for an old'un
