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Cassette motor for Toshiba RT-S782 ?

jt.techno - 2013-11-09 08:25

Hi all, I re-belted my Toshiba RT-S782 recently and all worked fine again but then the motor seized up - I used switch cleaner/lubricant (Servisol Super 10) inside the motor spindle and got it workin OK again but it has since (after week or so) seized up again. I wonder if motor is on way out and whether anybody has a spare motor I could replace it with, else any ideas what may be a better lubricant for the existing motor? Thanks, Jon.

driptip - 2013-11-09 10:36

oh man thats bad news, i dont have any motors at the moment but i hope someone here can help you out.  good luck.

jt.techno - 2013-11-09 16:26

I took it all apart again and relubricated the motor again - I was a bit more generous with the Servisol and took more time to ensure the motor spindle span freely - put it all back together again and (for now) all working OK. However, if anybody does have a spare motor for this model that they no longer need then it would be much appreciated just in case my motor decides in the not too distant future that it has simply had enough of my musical tastes ;-)

firebait - 2013-11-09 19:09

Originally Posted by driptip:

oh man thats bad news, i dont have any motors at the moment but i hope someone here can help you out.  good luck.

Hi, Do you have any idea where I can get belts for a Toshiba KT-AS10 ?

Thanks !

driptip - 2013-11-09 21:00

if you are in the uk docs has them all. or at least hell find some close in size to what you need, send him a dialog.

jt.techno - 2013-11-10 01:15

I got a selection pack from Malvern Audio on eB... I think they can also send you actual sizes too if you know the specs you need.

jt.techno - 2013-11-11 08:25

Right - my motor has seized again ... aaaargh ... but I have managed to read the details off the side of it in order to buy a replacement equivalent off eBay and so will see if the new one fits/works when it arrives ... I am hoping the motor pulley on existing seized one can be removed and fitted to new one - hopefully just a tight push fit ... does anybody have experience of motor pulleys ... ie are they usually a push fit or glued onto the motor spindle? FYI - old motor is Mabuchi EG-510ED-2B 2400rpm CCW and new one I have ordered is EG-530AD-2B of same spec.

seb968 - 2013-11-11 08:34

I have replaced a few cassette motors and they all appear to have a pretty standard shaft diameter. Transfering pullys has not been a problem. Screw mount holes have been standard also. All you have to watch are voltage (obviously!) RPM, and direction of rotation. Good luck!

jt.techno - 2013-11-11 10:45

OK, cool, thanks - hopefully should be OK then :-)

seb968 - 2013-11-11 11:05

Yes; hopefully, if not P.M. me, may have somthing in my spares cupboard!

jt.techno - 2013-11-11 14:30

Thanks Seb - I'll let you know how I get on.

seb968 - 2013-11-11 14:35

No worries

jt.techno - 2013-12-07 16:15

After opening up my Toshiba RT-S782 , I examined the dodgy tape motor and found it was a Mabuchi EG-510ED-2B 12VDC (2400) CCW ... so I went on web but found these are discontinued and hard to get but that I could use an alternative Mabuchi EG-530AD-2B (EG530AD2B) motor of same spec. instead. I found this alternative motor on eBay for £4.50 + £2 p&p ... and I just fitted it in place of the old motor (with a bit of soldering, de-soldering, re-soldering ... as I got polarity wrong first attempt ;-) and all is now working as it should!  Sorted ... I now have a minty Tosh again :-)

gwd72 - 2014-02-10 08:51

Originally Posted by JT Techno:
...old motor is Mabuchi EG-510ED-2B 2400rpm CCW and new one I have ordered is EG-530AD-2B of same spec.

I am looking for this one: EG-510ED-9B, 9 VDC (2400) CCW, Mabuchi.  Given the info, does it somehow indicate torque?  Maybe if there is a EG-530AD-9B existing, it would be a good replacement?  Do you understand how to decode the numbers?

Any help would be appreciated.  My original motor is working, but, I need to finger "push-start" a pulley to get any movement, so I was guessing the old motor has lost some torque(?, really just a guess), which it would need off the start to get it going? (motor starts fine by itself when removed from the unit, but can only take a load with some help, after which it remains running fine).  If you think this signifies a different problem than a motor torque issue, please feel free to comment!

 

Cheers!!

jt.techno - 2014-02-13 13:30

FILE - Motores MABUCHI.pdf

Hi GWD72,

I attach a spec sheet I downloaded from somewhere on the web but it does not list your EG-510ED-9B but it does provide the spec for the EG-530AD-9B and it does seem to match what you are after i.e. 9V 2400 CCW.

I suggest you check out the other specs re dimensions to ensure it will fit the space it needs to go into.

Don't worry if it is slightly smaller as my replacement was slightly smaller but the location holes were the same distance and spacing around the spindle, so I was able to remove the mounting screw lugs from old motor and screw them into the new one so it mounted correctly again.

You will also have to carefully pull the pulley from the old motor and slide it onto the new motor spindle (it should just be a tight push fit, not glued or anything).

So with that and a quick bit of rewiring/soldering it should hopefully all be good again.

One thing to note if it first looks like the new one is not working, check the polarity of your wiring - I managed to get mine wrong first time - it did not damage anything but just did not spin correctly - once I swapped the wires around again it all worked fine!

I had a quick look on ebay using the search string "EG 530AD 9B" and saw a few quite cheap Buy-It-Now listings, so worst case is that you spend about £5 and it turns out to be wrong fit but best case is that you grab a bargain replacement motor and the deck works great forever more :-)

I am not sure where you are in the World to know which listing would ship nearest to you but presently there seems to be a choice from UK, USA or Hong Kong.

I hope this helps :-)

aestereo - 2014-02-14 01:41

Originally Posted by GWD72:
....
My original motor is working, but, I need to finger "push-start" a pulley to get any movement, so I was guessing the old motor has lost some torque(?, really just a guess), which it would need off the start to get it going? (motor starts fine by itself when removed from the unit, but can only take a load with some help, after which it remains running fine).  If you think this signifies a different problem than a motor torque issue, please feel free to comment!

 

Cheers!!

Do you have the skills to open the motor?

I had a similar motor in one of my boxes. I opened the motor and found that it was dried up grease causing the stickiness. If the motor is running, it means there is no electrical fault. Just clean-up the inside around the bearings, clean the brush and contacts on the rotor and it should work. Also, over the period there is a chance that the gap between the poles of the rotor contacts may have been shortened due to metal/carbon dust build-up. Give a try.

 

gwd72 - 2014-02-16 22:01

Originally Posted by JT Techno:

...I hope this helps :-)

Yes, thanks, this was all quite helpful.  New territory for me so nice to have some pointers.  Thanks for the examples, I'm thinking this one on ebay would be a correct option.  I may go further with the one I have before I replace, will have to see.

 

Cheers!!

gwd72 - 2014-02-16 22:15

Originally Posted by AE_Stereo:
Do you have the skills to open the motor?

I had a similar motor in one of my boxes. I opened the motor and found that it was dried up grease causing the stickiness. If the motor is running, it means there is no electrical fault. Just clean-up the inside around the bearings, clean the brush and contacts on the rotor and it should work. Also, over the period there is a chance that the gap between the poles of the rotor contacts may have been shortened due to metal/carbon dust build-up. Give a try.

 

Hi, um define skill!   Yes and no!  I did "pry" the back cover off the outer casing, and removed the IC board, which had a big lump under it (the motor) but have not gone further.  First question: do you know a "good" way to remove these motor covers (of the outer case)?  I could not avoid hitting the connecting wires (was nowhere out of the way to put them while I was prying), and while it doesn't look pretty, I have managed to reconnect/repair these wires such that the motor "still" works.  Now, I see there are a couple tabs bent inwards keeping the back (IC board side) in place, but see that in my case (perhaps commonly) the IC board is also directly above these areas, so I am not sure how to bend these suckers up, without damaging something (this equals second question!). I am guessing the brushes armature could use a contact clean, and probably an old lube de-gunking etc! Is there a special tool to remove these tabs?  Some more advice please!! 

 

Cheers!!

jt.techno - 2014-05-16 05:05

Personally, if you can find a new replacement motor cheaply, I would just swap out the motor ... but that's just my take ... I like to tinker but some things, if they are only £5 or less, I just swap out :-)

andyboombox - 2014-05-16 05:19

another great success story,well done JT!!!!!