List of Common Walkman Capacitors (2017)

Discussion in 'Tech talk' started by bub, Jun 11, 2017.

  1. dotneck335

    dotneck335 Active Member

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  2. dotneck335

    dotneck335 Active Member

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    History of the Sony Walkman WM-D6C. Compiled from postings on Stereo2Go and tapeheads forums, as well as eBay listings of units for sale.
    February 1984: Original Sony Walkman WM-D6C released. Amorphous "pointy" parabolic PA259-3602A head marked "Japan", with screws on the side. Some say the earliest ones with parabolic head are the most desirable. Brown/green phenolic PC boards 1-611-494-11 with through-hole components. X-3305-830-1 Motor. Yellow indicators for Tape Type and Dolby NR Yellow Roman numerals for Tape Type; Only Sony logo on the leather case. Tape drive mechanism MT-D6C-20.
    January 1985: Generation 2: Supplement 1 notes Dolby chip change from CX20068 to CX 20218, as well as surrounding component value changes. PCB now -12. Serial # range undetermined.
    Mid 1986: Generation 3: Change from "pointy" parabolic to rounded head 35711 @ ~serial # 72000.
    Spring 1988: Change to Dolby sticker color from white (silver) to black ~ serial # 117,000.
    March 1994: Generation 4: Supplement 2 at ~ serial # 267,201 notes change to double-sided green glass epoxy PCB 1-651-545-11 with SMD components. Muting modules and EQ modules and DC-DC converter are part of the PCB, a lot less wires. Change to 1-541-851-11 motor.
    April 1996: Service Bulletin 395 issued. The motor was changed from X-3305-830-1 to X-3370-805-1. There are some component changes and the addition of a resistor and capacitor.
    April 1999: Supplement 3 shows two resistor values were changed to lower the headphones maximum output to make a French model.
    June 2001: Generation 5: Supplement 4 shows main PCB changed to 1-651-545-14; motor drive servo circuit redesigned with servo IC CX069A. The servo controller is now a smaller 8 pin IC and is protected which is switched by several other transistors and a MOSFET, to prevent damage. Comparator IC added. Change to Dolby IC #2002176. Rev. 1.1 service manual was issued.
    Generation 6: Change to permalloy head 35712 in serial #s ~514xxx and above. Marking "amorphous head" on the case is no longer present (date undetermined); however, only later units had the “amorphous head” script removed from the badge on the front of the machine so it cannot be used as a reliable guide to which type is fitted.
    2002: WM-D6C production discontinued.
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2024
  3. bub

    bub Active Member

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    Not to my knowledge. The closest electrolytic is ECA-0JM221, 5mm diameter, 12mm height. This is an issue with the WM10/100 based models in general. With some work and slight offsetting I remember getting ECA-0JM221 to fit in at least the W800.
    This is one where you might want to try substituting with tantalum. Worth looking at SMD poly caps too, If I remember correctly a 4mmheight 6.3mm diameter 220uf existed at some point.
     
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  4. nirone95

    nirone95 New Member

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    Ciao a tutti, scusate l'intrusione, ho un AIWA PX 537 e quando suono sento solo un rumore. Volevo sostituire i famosi condensatori SMD in alluminio, ma purtroppo, rimuovendone uno, ho danneggiato il circuito stampato. Non è un problema, posso risolvere con un normale condensatore a stagno, quindi la mia domanda è: posso usare dei normali condensatori elettrolitici se riesco a trovarne di dimensioni simili? Infine, qualcuno ha un tutorial specifico su come dissaldare i vecchi condensatori SMD?
    Grazie per tutto il vostro aiuto!!!
     
  5. Bacca_blusante

    Bacca_blusante New Member

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    Buon giorno Nirone, oltre a essere compatibili a livello di taglia c'e' bisogno che i condensatori che installi abbiano la stessa capacita' e tensione di funzionamento di quelli che hai rimosso, per quanto riguarda dissaldare i condensatori SMD, solitamente effettuo tale operazione con una lametta accuratamente piazzata sotto il condensatore per fare un minimo di forza, un po' di treccia di rame per assorbire lo stagno , e alternando i fue punti di contatto, senza forzare nulla, finche' il condensatore non se ne viene praticamente da solo. Se hai bisogno di ulteriori risorse per tali pratiche ti consiglio di rivolgerti ai video di riparazioni di videogiochi (come gameboy) in quanto la documentazione e' disponibile in grandi quantita'
     

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